Good Surf is Where You Make It

It seems surfers often talk about how surfing is too commercialized, how the surf’s too crowded, or how the surf experience “ain’t what it used to be.” My response is, “Yeah, surfing’s popular! Deal.” The truth is, if you know where (and when) to look, you can still score good waves, uncrowded conditions, and magical moments. This shot was from just such a session two days before Easter on the Central Coast of California. An uncrowded lineup, good waves, and nature aplenty. Good surf is where you make it.

In between sets, getting ready to leap.